Wednesday, November 24, 2021

Dana 44 Speedi-Sleeve, Bearing, and Seal Replacement

This is on the rear axle of a 2008 Jeep Wrangler. 

Required Tools

For this job, you'll need a slide hammer, a press, a rotary cut-off tool, among other common tools. Please don't attempt it without access to these necessary tools. 

The Situation on the Dana 44

If you need to pull the shaft out of this Dana 44 axle, plan on replacing the seal, bearing, and bearing retainer. The bearing and bearing retainer are both pressed on the shaft. The seal can't be replaced without cutting off the bearing and bearing retainer. 

The National 9912 seal has an expanding outer diameter. When the retaining nuts are all torqued down, the seal will be compressed between the retainer and the race and it will expand the outer diameter. Because of this, the seal must be replaced if the axle shaft is ever removed. 

Disassembly

First, I removed the wheel, then the brake caliper, then the rotor/drum. With the parking brake off, it should slide right off. If not, try turning the adjuster. 

Next, I removed the four nuts holding the retainer. Then I removed the bolt holding the wheel speed sensor to get it out of the way so the retainer can slide past it. 

A few light taps on the slide hammer got the axle shaft out. 

To remove the bearing retainer, I used a rotary cut-off tool to cut most of the way through the bearing retainer. It sometimes makes a popping noise when it cracks the rest of the way through where you cut it. If you're getting uncomfortably close to the shaft, try hitting it on the cut with a chisel. That should split it. A similar cut on the opposite side will make it even easier to take off. 

Then cut through the bearing, but don't cut into the seal area. A cut on each side should allow you to pull the bearing cage off. Then you can cut most of the way through the inner race. Try two or three cuts and a chisel to crack it. Then you can tap it on alternating sides to slide it off. 

Now you can slide the seal off. 

Inspect the sealing surface for damage.  If there's only normal wear, you probably can clean it up pretty well with 600 grit sandpaper. 

Speedi-Sleeve

At this point, I realized this wasn't going to be an ordinary job. I needed a Speedi-Sleeve to repair it correctly. Since there wasn't a listing for it in the auto-parts catalogs, I had to verify the dimensions and I saw that the shaft diameter was right in the correct range for Speedi-Sleeve 99187.


NATIONAL 9912 Specifications
FootnoteExpanded O.D.
Housing Bore (Inch)2.877
Housing Bore (MM)73.080
Inside Diameter1.875 In.
Inside Diameter47.630 mm
MaterialNitrile
Outside Diameter2.865 In.
Outside Diameter72.770 mm
Outside Diameter (Inch)2.865
Outside Diameter (MM)72.770
Part DescriptionOil Seal
Series9000
Shaft (Inch)1.875
Shaft (MM)47.630
Type25
Unit of DimensionInch
Width (inch)0.470
Width (MM)11.940


SKF 99187 Speedi-Sleeve

DIMENSIONS

SHAFT DIAMETER RANGE
d1
min. 47.549 mm
Shaft diameter range
d1
max. 47.701 mm
Shaft diameter range


The Last Guy

The last guy that was in here working on this axle did not have the correct tools or know-how to complete the job correctly. It is entirely possible to remove the bearing and retainer without scratching the axle. Here's what the passenger's side axle looked like after he did it the wrong way. 

I didn't do any of this damage. Not buying the correct tools isn't really saving money. I can't imagine the level of frustration and how hard it was doing it the wrong way.

When there is a dent where the seal rides, it will not seal. This will need a Speedi-Sleeve repair.

Driver's side axle:


This side also needs a Speedi-Sleeve. It looks like the guy tried to install the bearing and bearing retainer with a hammer. I think I also see grinder marks. 

 

Here's the driver's side axle with the Speedi-Sleeve installed. It's ok to have the flange there. It won't be in the way even though it doesn't go all the way down. You definitely don't want to press it any farther down than it already is.


The last guy also buggered up the inside of the tube trying to get the race out. It's really simple and easy with a three jaw attachment on a slide hammer. You only have to tap it gently.


When I installed the bearing retainer nuts, I turned each a quarter turn at a time. I alternated between all four, turning each a quarter turn at a time so that there was even pressure on the seal as it got compressed. 

If you want to vicariously experience the thrill of this job, check out the video I made for my youtube channel: https://youtu.be/X-UH6-05nm8